05 – Terminator Captain

I have to admit I approached this model with a little trepidation as the captain wasn’t wearing his helmet, which meant i’d have to paint some flesh. I’ve always shied away painting flesh as there tends to be no middle ground in that it either looks good or crap.

So with this in mind I cracked open the various flesh shades contained in the Scale 75 Scalecolour range, Pink Flesh, Basic Flesh, Golden Skin, Light Skin, Pale Skin, along with Citadel’s Lahmian Medium and Reikland Fleshshade.

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I started with a base layer covering of thinned Pink Flesh. It took a few coats to get the colour uniform.After that it was just a case of building the highlights up but instead of thinning the paint with thinner I used the Lahmian Medium as I’ve found this is great for blending. After I’d added the first highlight of Basic Flesh I used a thinned wash of Reikland Earthshade just to pull the blends together. I then highlighted further with Golden Skin, Light Skin and a final highlight on Pale Skin. In between these layers I added every increasing thinned layers of Reikland where needed.

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After the flesh was painted I thought I’d try my hand at adding some details. Firstly with a really light purple mixed with a little Pale Flesh I started to pick out the veins in the head. It took my ages to do this but sadly I couldn’t get the camera to to pick them out.

After this I started on the facial and head stubble. This was done by mixing a light grey with some pale skin and applying it to the correct areas. Applying several coats made the hair look thicker. Once the hair was dry I applied a super thin wash of pale skin mixed with Lahmian to pull the colours together.

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The only other thing of real note that I did differently on this model was to add some Emperor’s Children transfers to the cape as I wanted the cape to show the prestige of the Captain. The transfers were added using Micro Set and Micro Sol which is a must purchase if you’re adding transfers (I have a blog on Micro Sol and Micro Set in the pipeline). Once the transfer where set I added a layer of anti-shine, see here.

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I’ll add some piccies later once I’ve finished the base!

paintRack – the Greatest Painting App around

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Like most hobbyist I’ve amassed a small* collection of paints in every hue imaginable in order to paint my battle hardened plastic warriors.

*read large collection, however, if anyone asks I will never have enough paints.

I own paints designed to be used with a brush, with an airbrush, to be dry brushed on, and to be washed on and they’re all from several different paint manufacturers; Citadel, P3, Vallejo, Scale75 and Army Painter (this doesn’t even cover the oil paints and pigments).

What I’ve found, however, is that I get colour blind with all the choice so I end up painting with my favorite paints at the moment, which is currently Scale75, and ignore the rest.This both limits my pallet and is a waste of the paint I own but haven’t considered as it wasn’t immediately at hand.

So the other night on twitter I asked the question to the #warmongers community

I recieve two responses to this question with both recommending paintRack

After downloading paintRack by @courageousocto and using it for a few days I can honestly say it’s excellent. The app allows you list paints from the Citadel, P3, Reaper, Vallejo, Warpaints, Tamiya, Scale75, Coat d’Arms, Citadel Classic, Minitaire, Watercolours, Humbrol, Andrea Colour, Ammo and Secret Weapon. You can add the paints by a simple click or just scan the barcode.

They’re two features however, that really make this app stand out for me. The first, is the library feature that lets you organise your paints, irrespective of brand, in colour order. I’ve found this really useful when picking out shades of paint for new schemes. The second features I really like is the ‘sets’ feature that allows you to store the colours you’ve used for specific models and their different elements, there’s even an area to add your mixing ratio notes. This for me is a great as I normally write my colour scheme down and then I lose the book a few days later.

So if you want an app that will list, organise, create sets, have a wish list and colour tools for your paints then this app is definitely worth looking at. I believe there’s a trial version but I immediately forked out for the full version at £2.79 after using it for a few minutes as I was really impressed. If you’re still not convinced then you can watch the promo video below.

 

And the link to the app on the Android Play store is here. Unfortunately, I don’t think it is available for the i-People.

Paint Killing

Whilst working on my EC chaplin’s cloak I noticed that some of the paint was starting to the rise off the model. I imagine that something stopped the base layer and the highlights from drying properly.

Using a brush and some water I managed to get most of the paint off the cloak but there were still some stubborn areas of paint left. As I wanted the cloak to be as smooth as possible these had to go before I repainted the cloak.

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If I could avoid it I didn’t want to strip the rest of the paint off the model so I decided that I’d give Scale 75’s aptly named ‘PaintKiller’ a try.

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Before buying the Paintkiller, from Elment Games, I did a few internet searches for reviews and couldn’t find any. Now I’ve been using the Scale 75 Scale Colour range, and they’re excellent, so this gave me some confidence that the PaintKiller would be a quality product.

The other day my Paintkiller arrived and I have to say I was fairly excited, well as excited as a grown man get over a bottle of clear liquid that wouldn’t get me intoxicated if drank it. Now one thing I’ve learnt in the few years I’ve been modeling is to always read the instructions and in this instance I’m glad I did as Paintkiller can only kill paint on resin or metal products. I have to say this came as a bit of a blow as I was after a miracle product that would remove paint from a plastic model.

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The other reason I was a little bit narked was that I’d checked both the Scale 75 website and the retailers site and there was no mention on either about the restrictions on use. For my part I was probably being a little naive by thinking that a 100% plastic model safe paint stripper had been developed but I live in hope.

I do have a resin Dreadnaught that needs stripping and given an EC colour scheme so I can use the paint killer on that but for the plastic Chaplin I’m unsure of what to do. I will probably try cleaning the cape up a little more and then re-paint the cape OR I could find a plastic safe method of stripping the whole model and paint it all again OR as a last resort buy the model again from eBay as everyone is splitting the sets up.

 

Epilogue

Test 1 – Plastic

So the other night I thought ‘fuck it, I’m going use that Paint Killer on the Chaplin” so I made a little PaintKiller bath, dunked him and watched in amazement as the paint just fell off him within seconds. I used an old toothbrush to get to the paint in the creases of the model but other than that it needed no help. As you can see from the piccy the model hasn’t melted, exploded or gained superpowers. In short I’m super impressed with Paintkiller on a plastic model! Oh Scale 75 I think I love you…. please don’t break my heart because you have it now.

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Test 2 – Resin

I picked up a Contempator Relic Dreadnought when I first got back into the hobby, it was, and sadly still is my biggest Forgeworld purchase which will now obviously change as I’ve started collecting Emperor’s Children. I don’t know if I got over excited by painting a Forgeworld model but in short I really messed the paint job up. I wasn’t happy with it at the time and each time I’ve looked at it since it seems to have gotten worse (like some 30k picture of Dorian Grey, oh wait that story has already been plagerised in Fulgrim).

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From my earlier Paintkiller plastic test I had around 3/4 of the bottle left which I poured into a disposal cup and then I part submerged the model. I let the dread soak for around five minutes after this time I took the model out and turned him around so that the other area would get chance to soak. I then started to work on the model with a tooth brush.

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As you can see the paint comes off easily, even if I does look like an alien that’s just burst from your stomach. The only issue I had was that the PaintKiller quickly became saturated with paint so that everytime I dipped the brush I inadvertently added a thin wash off diluted paint and Paintkiller over the model. This wasn’t a big issue but it did make it hard to see were the stubborn bits of paint were.

It took a bit of scrubbing to get the paint off especially in the model recesses but eventually it moved. Once the model was scrubbed I rinsed it under the tap. If I’m honest, the model could probably do with another wash to get rid of the odd red tint but I’m hoping that when I apply the base coat there will be no hint to its former life.
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Overall, I’m really happy with the Paintkiller as it removed all the paint on both plastic and resin without destroying the models or any details. As plastic is not listed on the instructions as being safe to use with Paintkiller then I would be very careful if you do use it on plastic. Add a little, don’t leave it to soak and scrub with a brush.

On a final note please wear gloves when using this stuff as your skin will melt.

04 – Forever Autumn – Building a Base

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Basing models is something I tend to rush. For me it’s normally the last step in the process and comes after I’ve completed the model which means I’m thinking about the next model and not the one I need to finish. With this in mind I decided that for my Emperor’s Children I’d make the bases in conjunction with the models.

The next decision was what type of base would match my pre-heresy Emperor’s Children, industrial, lava, snow, swamp or grass? In the end I went for a tiled derelict temple. I looked at resin bases but decided against this as I enjoy having a little money in my wallet. This led me to start trawling YouTube for do-it yourself basing videos. After watching a lot of dross I came across this video and decided that the method of creating a tiled floor looked easy, effective and a hell of a lot cheaper than resin bases.

The first step was to mark up 1cm x 1xcm squares on an old Warhammer box. After spending what seemed like an eternity cutting up a warsphinx box I eventually had enough tiles to begin gluing them to the base. For the tactical marine bases I decided to keep things simple so the tiles were glued directly to the base. For the larger terminator bases I added the hero of basing material cork. The cork added a physical depth and also distinguished the more costly models.

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I then glued the tiles to the top of the cork in a fairly even tile pattern. Once the glue was dry I used a craft knife to trim the overhanging tiles. I then removed and lifted some of the tiles to add to the sense of age, decay and abandonment to the base. Once this was done I added some grit to the base area of the cork and random piles on the tiles to further add to the abandoned feel. The base was then primed black.

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The next decision was around the colour scheme for the tiles. Originally I was thinking of making a dark green and black harlequin pattern but decided against this I thought it would probably end up being too dark. I then started to think about the overall theme of my Emperor’s Children, they’re still a loyalist legion but standing on the cusp of their fall into chaos. This led to me becoming a little poetic and thinking of my Emperor’s Children as being in the autumnal season of their service to the Emperor. To reflect this I thought I’d go with autumnal colours on the tiles so a deep red and yellow. To further reflect this I wanted to add some autumnal flocking to the base.

I then started to paint the full base using Scale 75 Walnut. The cork area was then dry brush highlighted with Scale 75 Tenere Yellow. For the tiles I went with Scale 75 Deep Red lightly mixed with the walnut and Scale 75 Tenere Yellow mixed with walnut and painted in an alternate pattern. These colours looked the most autumnal to me. After this a light drybrush of Scale 75 Rainy Grey over the tiles to pick out the tile edges.

The last element was to add some autumnal colour flocking to give the impression of fallen leaves.

I think the base complements the model nicely, what are your thoughts?

 

03 – Gold, Gold, You’re Indestructible 

Last night I decided to start work on the Cataphractii Terminator sgt. Ideally, I wanted to tackle the armour highlights and low lights, unfortunately, I’m still waiting on a few purple paints to arrive which led me start on the golds.

As I’ve mentioned in a previous post I wanted the golds to be rich and deep, the warm look you get from pure gold. The one thing I didn’t want is for the gold to overpower the model as I want it to fit in with all the elements of the model, plus it’s a grimdark future so we don’t want things too shiny.

With this in mind I started basing the area I wanted with Scale 75 Viking Gold. As with all Scale 75 paint the Viking gold has great coverage and it’s colour is deeper than the more yellow hued golds.


To add more depth to the gold I thinned down Life Colour Black and applied it to the gold areas. More coats were applied to the recess and areas that would be in shadow. I could have used GW Nulin Oil for this but I’ve found that it dries with a slight shine which isn’t the look I wanted for the shadows.

Once everything was dry I picked out edges and details with GW Retributor Armour.


So that’s about that, does the gold compliments the purple? Again all thoughts and feedback are welcome.

01 – Tickle Me Purple

I’ve always liked the pre-heresy Emperor’s Children, like the Lunar Wolves time is spent in the early Horus Hersey novels establishing the legion as flawed but deeply proud and honourable. Fulgrim finds beauty in the arts and strives for perfection, he also loves, Horus, his brother deeply and is the first to try and sway him from his path into chaos. We also see the best of the legion in the staunch Saul Tarvitz and the legendary Ancient Rylanor who both watch in despair as their legion is slowly corrupted and then there’s Lord Commander Eidolon who is pretty much a dick all the time.

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With this in mind I’ve decided that my next project will some pre-hersey Emperor’s Children, who are at the point in their history where they are proud, perfectionist, a little arrogant and they alsoappreciate a good poem so I’m thinking pre the “Murder” campaign. What I don’t want them to be is at the point in their history where they are knobbing everything that moves, incorporating musical instruments into their bodies and generally being sick puppies. In short this will mean no Kakophoni models.

To capture the feel of the Emperor’s chosen legion I want a really deep and rich purple, an imperial purple, a purple that is so deep you could sink into it. *My plan is to prime firstly in black and then from there airbrush with a thin deep purple colour – Scale 75 Violet, Army Painter Alien Purple or P3 Beaten Purple come to mind as prime purple candidates. After this I was thinking of a small highlight something along the lines of Scale 75 Sunset Purple followed by P3 Carnal Pink for the edges. Hopefully, if I can keep the black primer creating the shadows and successfully blend in the base purple the highlights will only need to be at a minimum meaning that I should retain the deep, darker purple I want.

*As an aside I really need to thank @teabreakgossip – an inspirational Ultramarine painter and all round nice guy – as a Twitter conversation with him really focused my mind on how to achieve the look I wanted for my ECs. If they end up looking sub standard then it will be down to my ability and not the advice I’ve been given.

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As most people are now doing I decided that the easiest way to get the Astarte would be from the Betrayal of Calth set which is an exceptional deal if you want a good number of models to kick start your legion. I decided to stay away from the forgeworld legion upgrades for heads, torso, shoulders (knees and toes, knees and toes) and instead opted for two sheets of transfers. I may, at a later date, pick up some heads and shoulders to intersperse them into the legion for variety but I’m not Scrooge McDuck swimming in a vault of money so I can’t afford to do it for every model.

In terms of the forgeworld transfers they are fantastic, it’s great that you get the standard iconography as well as the Warmaster eyes which links in with the Emperor’s Children lore and the shared history between them and the Lunar Wolves. In terms of the quality of the transfers the gold is really rich and vibrant and I can’t wait to get them on some painted models.

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If I’m honest there is one model in the Betrayal of Calth set that I’m not overally impressed with. Perhaps I’m being a little harsh as the rest of the plastic models are excellent but the contempator dreadnought just looks really static and lifeless from the hips down. Now I know the Astarte encased in the dreadnought no longer needs functioning hips but I’d still like to see a little motion there. It looks like he’s been turned off which takes the soul out of the model and a model like the contempator dreadnought needs soul as they are the living heart and history of a legion. I think that I’ll either try and add some life to the model myself, with some motion in the hips and legs, or failing that just flog the model and put the cash towards a forgeworld Emperor’s Children contempator dreadnought….at the moment the later option is winning and you can understand why when you look at those hips!

imageFor the white pauldrons, which some of the models will have, I wanted them to obviously looks white but not too white and with a soft shadow around the edges. To archive this I’ll probably put a base layer of Scale 75 artic blue and then find an appropriate dull white to finish it off. In terms of the gold on the Emperor’s Children I want an antique feel to the gold, that deep rich colour that you get from pure gold, so again I’m thinking something along the lines of Scale 75 Viking Gold as a base then probably GW Retributor Armour as a highlight.

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So this, at moment, is my plan for a pre-hersey Emperor’s Children force that contains dark shadows and rich, deep, purples and golds. Hopefully, I’ll be able to realise the vision laid out in this post. I plan to document the journey here from start to finish so watch out for future updates and please feel free to comment with suggestions and feedback.

Until the next time.

‘Children of the Emperor!  Death to his foes!’

The Discontinued Undead – The Fall of the Tomb Kings

After painting a handful of Stormcast Eternals several months ago I decided that I wanted a change so I purchased some Tomb Kings – a set of guards, A warsphinx, and a tomb king. It takes me an age to paint anything so in the space of me deciding to start collecting Tomb Kings the Fates – who live at Games Workshop HQ – unsheathed their sharp scissors and cut the Tomb Kings thread of life or removed the spell that is holding their dead bones together. Either way they are now officially shafted which will make it a little harder to pick up TK models. With this in mind I decided that I’d just imalgimate them into a larger undead army (this will explain the VC in some of the pictures).

For my TK army I wanted the models to be connected with a colour theme. After looking at images on ancient Egyptian artefacts it struck me how vibrant the golds and the turquoise where. I think this is especially shown in Tutankhamun’s death mask, the mixture of the rich gold and the deep blue really make the turquoise pop.

My only concern with emulating this colour scheme was that I didn’t think the really bright gold would translate well onto a miniture so I decide that I’d probably dull it down.

With all the models I primed them with Vallejo black surface primer. After this I painted all the gold areas with GW Retributer gold as it’s a rich deep gold and provides great coverage. Now I know gold doesn’t tarnish but I wanted the TKs to look ancient, like they’ve been knocking around the desert for years and I thought that tarnishing the gold would achieve this.

To tarnish the gold I first applied around three washes of GW’s Seraphim Sepia. After the sepia washes had dried a dry brush of the retributer gold was applied to pick out the edges and give the gold a little more depth. Next was a diluted solution of GW Nihilakh Oxide to add the tarnished look. Once this was fully dried I did one last dry brush of retributer.

Next up was all the areas that I wanted to be turquoise. I started with a base coat of Scale 75 Bering Blue and whilst I had the blue out I also painted all cloth areas and airbrushed the Warsphinx flesh with the same blue.


After this it was wash time again. The cloth areas received a wash of GW Drakenhof Nightshade, this wash significantly darkens the light chalkey Bering blue and gives the areas a deep blue look. Once the wash had dried I edge highlighted with Bering blue to give some depth to the cloth.

The areas which I wanted to be turquoise had a wash of GW Biel-Tan to add a green hue to the Bering blue. Once dry highlights of Scale 75 Adriatic Blue where added to give the look of turquoise.

Since these mini’s are primarily skeletons it would probably be best if I mentioned how I painted the bones. Firstly, I added a base layer of P3 Menoth White base followed by a wash of GW Seraphim Sepia. Once this was dry I picked out the bone detail using Vallejo Game Air Dead white. It’s a fairly simple method compared to some of the others I’ve heard and I think it looks effective for old bones.

After tidying up the bits and pieces I went onto paint the desert resin bases. To add a little warmth to the models I wanted the desert to be more of any orange hue than a yellow wash out. I started by firstly priming the base with Vallejo black surface primer, the base coat was Scale 75 Mars orange, followed by a highlight of Vallejo Game Air Sun Yellow.

So that is pretty much that. I think they’ve turned out okay and captured the Egyptian feel, I’ll be carrying on the blue and turquoise theme with any other undead as I believe adds an ethereal quality to the miniture.

As always all feedback is welcome.