Slaughterpriest

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Last week like most people who have an interest in all things Games Workshop I picked up the new version other The White Dwarf – I like to imagine that White Dwarf is actually fully written, edited and pictures provided by a dwarf who is simply known as The White Dwarf – which is back to a monthly publication and as a little bonus there was a free Slaughterpriest model attached! Huzzah!

When I was home browsing the pictures with my son, who I’ve affectionately given the nickname Tiny Man or TM, he wanted to know more. So after a quick “history lesson” he was soon up to speed with the betrayal of the Emperor by Horus and the various Space Marine and Chaos legions, his favourites were the Imperial Fists but he also took a shine to the Deathwatch. We then moved onto the Age of Sigmar and he spotted the Slaughterpriest model I’d placed on the side. After seeing the completed pictures in the White Dwarf TM asked me to start work on mine. So like an loving father would – when their child shows an interest in their hobby – I put my glade of dryads on hold, ripped my shirt off, sacrificed a unicorn to Khrone and started work on the Slaughterpriest.

I started by cleaning the model up, assembling and priming it black. It’s worth noting that some elements of the model are a little fragile, particularly the ball and chain and the spike and skull attached to the back so be careful. I didn’t want to spend too long painting this model as I had no army, or intention to create one, to add him too. I wanted a paint scheme that I didn’t have to work out myself so with this in mind I simply followed the paint scheme that was in the White Dwarf with a few modifications to replace the GW colours I didn’t have.

As a slight aside, I’m normally the sort of person that just wings a paint scheme. I’ll write down what I do but I just paint from what I see, which means I’ve never actually followed a painting guide before. I have to say that by following the guide my painting speed increased dramatically and I’m very happy with the results, Khrone I’m sure is also proud.

Stage 1 – Brass Monkey
The first step advised by The White Dwarf was to cover all the area you wanted to be brass in GW Retributor Armour. Luckily, I have GW Retributor Armour so I added a little thinner to the paint and applied it to the pauldrons, the trim of the boots, the guard on the sword, the chaos belt buckle and the tips of the leather tassels.

Step two was to wash the areas i’d just painted with the Retributor Armour with Agrax Earthshade. Now obviously I own a bottle of this stuff and I have a feeling that people who aren’t even hobbyist will have a bottle of Agrax. It’s like Oasis’s “What’s the story (morning glory)” everyone has a copy even though they can’t remember buying it.

Stage three was to drybush GW Sycrorax Bronze over the areas and this is where the White Dwarf caught me out as I didn’t have Scrotum Bronze*. So instead I turned to my trusty Scale 75 paints and used Victorian Brass instead, which I think looks ace.

*warning will shine if polished.

Stage four and we have a final drybrush of GW Necron Compound. Again I already have this so I followed this step to appease the Dwarf.

Overall, I was happy with the bronze tone I achieved.

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Now next on the Slaughtpriest hit list was the Khrone red armour. A little known fact about the followers of Khrone is that they don’t actually like the sight of blood as it upsets their tummy but they do love mindless slaughter. So in order to not have a dicky tummy when they’re partaking in their favourite pastime they paint everything red so they can’t see the blood.

Stage Two – Bring your Auntie to the Dancy

Step one is to cover all the bits of armour you want red in GW Khrone Red. Now I don’t have or couldn’t find Khrone Red so I covered the helmet, ohhh matron, pauldrons and leg armour in Scale 75 Deep Red. You do need to be careful not to mess up the brass areas you’ve just nailed, so unlike a follower of Khrone you need to take your time. You also need to add a few drops of thinner to your paint. Blood and thinner to the paint God.

Step two is to apply a wash of GW Nulin Oil over all your red bits. I own Nulin Oil so I used Nulin Oil.

Step three, we’re back to the GW Khrone Red or in my case Scale 75 Deep Red. Pick out the raised areas and keep away from those recesses otherwise step two would have been for nought.

Step four, crack open your GW Evil Sunz Scarlet and start picking out major highlights. If like me you don’t have, can’t find or can’t borrow Evil Sunz then you can use a brighter red. I went for Scale 75 Antares Red.

Step five The White Dwarf says use Fire Dragon Bright for highlighting the red and as I had disobeyed his Dwarfness enough I followed his instructions on this one.

Again I’m happy with the results on the armour, I think it may need a little more Fire Dragon Bright just to add contrast.

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Stage Three – Oil me up for sun-bronzed skin

Step one – The Dwarf says colour all the fleshy bits in GW Bugman’s Glow. So that’s the chest and the hands just in case you’re struggling to know which bits are flesh. I didn’t have any Bugman’s so I went with Scale 75 Basic Skin. The paints were thinned so this took several coats to get a nice consistent layer. You need to be super careful at this point as you don’t want to get flesh tone on the areas that are now finished.

Step two – Pick out all the raised areas with GW Cadian Fleshtone, which I didn’t have but I did have Scale 75 Golden Skin. Again, I thinned this bad boy down and applied a few coats.

Step three involves reaching for the washes again and this time it’s GW Reikland Fleshshade, which I did have. The wash just pulls the two different layers of flesh tones together which is a good thing.

Step four is picking out the muscles with everybody’s favourite flesh tone…. GW Kislev Flesh. Which I didn’t have. So I went back to Scale 75 and whacked out my Pale Skin. Apply it thin and laugh.

Overall I’m happy with my flesh painting as it’s not a normally something I like doing but its turned out okay. For added detail I added a little purple to the flesh tone and picked out the veins under the skin.

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Stage Three – Balls of Steel

Step One is, according to the Dwarf, to add a coat of GW Leadbelcher to all the areas you want to be steel, so that’s the ball and chain and the sharp pointy thing in his over hand. I also wanted the spikes that are sticking out of his flesh to look metallic so that it looks like he’s added them to his body himself. I want my Slaughterpriest to look like he feels no pain so will add spikes and metal to his flesh for fun of it. You could also play it the otherway and paint the spikes to look like that they’re bones that have mutated out of his flesh. Instead of the Leadbelcher I used Vallejo Game Air Gunmetal.

Step Two apply Nulin Oil to your steel bits. I have this so I did this.

Step Three and the Dwarf has reached into his technical paints and decided that it’s time for Typhus Corrosion to shine. I don’t have this paint – the shame – so I missed this step out totally.

Step Four and it’s a drybrush of GW Ryza Rust to the steel areas. I’d advise not going crazy with this and make sure you don’t have too much on your brush as you’ll end up just turning the metallic areas orange and not the subtle rust effect you’ll want. Again I have the paint so no substitutes were needed.

Step Five and the White Dwarf tells us to highlight the steel areas using GW Runefang Steel and it’s a good call just make sure you pick of the details and don’t go crazy or you’ll destroy all the layers you’ve added which would be a shame.

Step Six and I decided to be a maverick and disobey the Dwarf and add some GW Blood for the Blood God technical paint to the blade and the ball. The White Dwarf does advise doing this but he adds it at the end of the process but I say screw you Dwarf I’ll add it when I bloody well want. In terms of using Blood for the Blood God i’d follow the maxim of less equals more. You don’t want to ruin all the details you’ve spent an age painting by going mental with BfBG.

And that’s it really for the complex stuff. The Dwarf does include some details on painting the leather, bones and tattered robe but to be honest it’s pretty standard stuff. After I’d finished the Slaughterpriest I created an ice base for him so that it looked like he was on his way down from the frozen north to pick up his Amazon order. I’ll cover the base creation in another blog as I’ve rambled on long enough.

Comments as always are welcome.

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Chaos Lord

Chaos Lord

One horny bastard

I’ve been working on my Chaos Lord for just over a month now, it’s in no way a difficult model to paint I’m just a really slow painter! I wanted the Chaos Lord to fit thematically with my Seekers of Slaanesh regiment but I didn’t want him to look exactly the same – he’s a Lord after all. I decided to stick with the purple and gold as the main colours but then mix and match everything else to add a little variety.

For the Warriors the purple came in with the capes and banner and the gold was the embossing on the shields. For the Chaos Lord I went for purple armour and flesh with gold embossing on the armour. I haven’t set the Warriors and the Lord out together yet but I’m sure that colour wise they’ll look as co-coordinated as superhero themed stag party.

So for those who would like to know how I painted my Chaos Lord then carry on reading.

I like to build up the major sections of the model first, paint them and then glue them together at the end. I paint for pleasure and am not concerned with how long a model takes to paint. I also thin all my paints before using them with the exception of the metallic colours as I can’t seem them to thin them down and keep their consistency.

After removing the model from the spruce and tidying the model up I primed it with Chaos Black GW spray paint. Is the spray paint still called that or is it Abaddon Black now?

I then painted the cape in Caliban Green* and washed it in Drakenhof Nightshade. Once the wash was dry I dry brushed the cape with a Caliban Green and Warpstone Glow mixture. I started off with just a hint of Warptone in the mix and thicker dry brushing to more Warpstone but just a hint of it on the brush. You will just want to be able to see it on your hand before applying it to the model.

*I’ll swear upon that bottle to be thy true subject;
for the liquor is not earthly.

Once the cape was painted I moved onto the scabbard and coin purse which I painted Guilliam Blue and then dry brushed the edge lightly with a lighter blue.

For the spear blade I used Warplock Bronze and then glazed with Lamenters Yellow. After that I dry brushed the edges with Runefang Steel.

After this I started on the armour. The base was painted with Xerus Purple and then washed in Druchii Violet. Once dry I dry brushed with Daemonette Hide for the highlights. For the gold trim I used an undercoat of Screaming Bell, followed by Balthsar Gold and then highlighted with Golden Griffon. Surprisingly, there was no dry brushing taking place for the gold sections.

The bone areas were painted with an undercoat of Privateer Press Menoth White followed by Agrax Earthshade Wash and the dry brushed with Tyrant Skull*. I wanted to make the shoulder guard look like an actual skull instead of a forged part of the armour so I painted that in the same way. When I glued the front and back of the model together the joint wasn’t flush so I painted over the gap with liquid green stuff – which is potted magic – and then painted as normal.

*otherwise know as the mother-in-law

For the flesh I undercoated with Daemonette Hide, I then added some Cadian Fleshtone to the Daemonette Hide and painted the highlights.

Lastly the base was painted with a base of Mechanicus Standard Grey and they dry brushed (but using a normal brush) with Celestra Grey. As the base is compact and busy with a number of skulls and rocks I decided not to flock it.

And that was that, complete, done and dusted. My next project will be some Chaos Knights! Blood for the Blood God!

I got all my bits from Element Games (twitter: ), they’re around 15-20% cheaper than buying direct from Gamesworkshop. If you do order from Element Games then use code STE978 as you’ll get double store credit and I’ll get a little too!

Everyone’s a winner… except for the losers of course!